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The Kremlin in Tomsk - Read Town Hall - Everything is freshly painted and there are beautiful gardens and trees --Photo by Albert Valeev |
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| The Station |
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| The University has been going since 1875 |
Tomsk has long been a university town and has had the benefit of good planning. The beautifully landscaped city centre has restricted building heights to showcase historical buildings. Industry and apartment blocks are confined to the suburbs, while traditional timber houses in the inner city add a rustic charm and green heart.
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Like most Russian cities, Tomsk has a statue of Lenin. Here he looks as if he's directing the traffic -Photo by Albert Valeev |
As we strolled through the old town, Albert explained that before the Revolution, only the nobility could build in stone, so merchants and officials displayed status with elaborate carvings like this.
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| Traditional wooden house in the old quarter |
-Photo by Albert Valeev
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| Elaborate fretwork denoted higher status |
Next, we strolled along the riverbank, a popular promenade for lovers. We passed a statue of Chekhov with a shiny nose — rubbing it is said to bring luck. Chekhov never lived in Tomsk and once described it as dull, so the town installed this statue to mock him as a drunk. It’s a popular spot for amateur poets on Fridays and the town is livelier these days.
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| This lady is rubbing Chehov's brass nose for good luck |
-Photo by Albert Valeev
Russians are big believers in luck. Other lucky charms include a statue at the university and an icon in front of the medical school which gets rubbed a lot before exams. A wire mother statue outside the Gynaecology clinic conveys good wishes to pregnant women and those hoping to conceive. At the bridge where a stream enters the river is a railing covered with locks — couples attach locks here and throw the keys into the river to declare their love. Nearby, the Wedding Fountain is a popular spot for wedding photos.
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The bridge of locks. Couples declare their love here, seal the lock together and then throw the key into the river as a sign of commitment -Photo by Albert Valeev
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People tie strips of cloth People add strips of cloth to this sculpture to send good wishes to pregnant women or those wishing to become so -Photo by Albert Valeev |
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This cabbage patch baby statue in front of the Maternity Hospital also gets its share of rubs -Photo by Albert Valeev |
On a somber note, we visited the KGB museum, once a notorious prison, now dedicated to those tortured, murdered, or sent to nearby Gulags. Outside, fresh carnations lay at the Polish Memorial to Victims of Oppression. Inside, faded photos, transcripts, and mementoes — including children’s clothing — recall those who passed through, many never to be seen again.
Back in daylight, we walked through public parks toward the university, finishing with genuine Russian bliny — large filled pancakes cooked on a revolving hotplate. Albert’s had ham, chicken, cheese, and mayonnaise. I chose berries and smetana (sour cream), but ended up eating half of his too. Delicious!
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| In the Park - there are donkey rides, portrait artists and photographers and a lot of people cooling off near the fountain |
-Photo by Albert Valeev
It was nearly as hard to get out of Tomsk as it was to get in, but staying in people’s homes gave me a glimpse of normal life — breakfasts, music, houses, and everyday culture. This interests me more than museums. It’s also nice to relax, do laundry, and use the computer.
Many thanks to Albert, Tanya, and Alyenka for their warm hospitality and for showing me around.
Hi Alyenka! Sorry to hear you have been sick. Get better soon.
Nearly all of these are Albert's photos except perhaps the station, because I couldn't get a new Simcard for my camera.
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