The Moika is an old Indian cargo ship that has a list to port even before it's loaded. The sign on the bridge says "Safety First." Very confidence inspiring. "Come Monday at six," the crew says. Three days later at 11.30, under cover of darkness we finally get underway. Nivans are a patient lot but no wonder a cheer goes up from the wharf as we leave Port Vila. This phenomenon is known as Island Time and drives foreigners, especially the ubiquitous and punctual Germans, insane. Mine is the only white face in the sea of smiling brown ones. On the open water the journey is rough and the boat heaves and shudders as it is hit by house -sized waves that spray over the passengers huddled on deck. A storm hits. I'm cold, wet and violently sick. Passengers sleep wherever they can. A lovely lady covers me and her son with a sarong and later her coat. Though a crew member offers me shelter in one of their cabins, this actually makes me feel worse, so I go back ...
Practising Geographer - nature culture places people