Veronika Wild

It's hard to explain the allure of Mongolia to those who haven't been there. Sometimes it's even a mystery to those who have. The landscape can be monotonous, even desolate, and its largest city is lately remembered more for the efficiency of its pickpockets and the zealousness of its immigration officials, than for the splendour of its architecture or the charm of its streetscapes. Yet those who have been here often come back again and again. The fleet is newer The pollution seems worse For those coming from densely packed European cities, the USA and Japan, those wide open spaces and endless unfenced horizons are impossible to forget. Nor will I forget Katje's face as she tells me about her time in the countryside helping poor herders with their animals. Katje is German. Her face is fresh and tanned and her blue eyes shine ."I have never been so dirty in my life!" she says proudly. There is still that exotic combin...

Health Warning: I was lucky enough to be in Mongolia at the height of its brief and glorious summer and encountered nothing but clear skies and friendly people. Since then however, I have heard some disturbing stories about foreign workers who have been bashed, robbed and left to freeze in the snow, so it is probably not a good idea to go by yourself. City Centre Ulaan Bataarhengis Khan The worst thing that happened to me apart from having to have cold water showers because they turn the heat off in summer, was that my Australian Travelex cards did not work. This wasn't all bad, as many people took me under their wing. Instead of hiring a car and driver as most tourists do, I was squished into one of the many mini vans that travel precariously all over the country. The 'roads' are non existent in many places, with most vehicles travelling on braided tracks beside the road to avoid broken tarmac and treacherous pot holes. Along the way, people are dropped off at isolated ge...